Narvskayadostava: How does the main feminist of Russia brand
Anyone who tries to launch brand in Russia, is forced to face many challenges at all stages — from production to implementation. As a result, even the most interesting idea, talent and experience does not guarantee results, so that many throw that all away now. And yet in recent years in Russia there were a few notable newcomers, which they say not only at home but also abroad. One of them is narvskayadostava, St Petersburg label created by artists-activists Cherish Nordic and Olga Shapovalova. Friend adhere to feminist views, so that for lumbunov shoot ordinary girls and regularly support crisis centers for women. We talked with the founders about the attitude of their brand in Russia, customers and plans.
Lola: With Olga we have a common love for old school, old rock music, punk culture, and the aesthetics of MTV 80-x and 90-x years. We loved to go to parties and concerts, dressing up in hot outfits, in search of which we spent the weekend at the St. Petersburg flea market "Adelka". We didn't have enough places where it would be really fun, so we decided to do our activities. So in 2009, there were parties cheapn chic, working on the principle "cheap and chic": we were and degiacomi, and organizatorami, and promotergene.
We came up with themes, painted Billboard, agreed with the sites, designed the space. But despite the success (at parties a few times over the alcohol at the bar), we have often been unworthy, openly despised our work. We asked for not very large fee, but nevertheless, we regularly try to pay less, or didn't want to pay at all. We realized that we don't want to be considered, because in the eyes of the people we "just some girl". It turned out that our society is still very far from equality. So we began to study feminism and decided that we were going to fight for their rights. By example we show that girls can stand up for themselves and to succeed in anything.
Olga: We Cherish knew each other for ten years when he decided to make the brand. We shared not only friendship and similar interests, but also a long collaboration, we went to rallies and fermarsi. However, looking at what was happening, I realized that you need to look for ways to promote our views, not to stew in their own juice.
Two years ago on March 8, we held the action: went on public transport with the column, from which came the recording of the statistics of violence against women in Russia, and quotes from prominent feminists. And on may 8, the eve of the "holiday with tears in the eyes," we gave the gallery a "Vertical" one day installation "Declaration of feelings". She was devoted to the expression of feelings by men — in particular, in tears: we wanted to show that the Patriarchy puts pressure on everyone. It was then that we thought had long wanted to make clothes and she would promote our ideas.
"It will do"[править]
Olga: All our difficulties, that two years ago, that now rests in the absence of external funding. On the one hand, it's pretty cool that we don't owe anyone anything, but it's very slow process. We live in St. Petersburg, then low salaries, and the prices are the same as in Moscow, therefore to save enough difficult. We chipped in seven thousand roubles, and ordered our first batch of socks. They were very few, but we prefer quality to quantity. Still hold this position, as all things do first and foremost for yourself.
Lola: actually, we don't have enough money even for a basic party, but we persuaded the factory hose on the volume of the smaller, promising order in the future only from them. Miraculously, they agreed. If you have the opportunity to defer, to establish production is not so difficult: you just need to do reserch on the Internet and visualize ideas. We did not have the financial ability to immediately release a full collection, so we began to produce models at a time, and it worked.
We are lucky that we have friends-designers, who have always supported the Board. We are particularly grateful to the Creator of the brand Circle of Unity Misha, Rico who shared their contacts and experience helped us to avoid mistakes and talked about the production. We also supported children from 8 stores-store Otdel — they immediately believed in us. Otdel gave advice on the development and bought our things from the very beginning that really helped us financially.
=== We did rip-off the logo Thrasher, painted print in the same style but with the word "Feminist" — such is the irony of the machismo in skateboarding and extreme sports ===
OLGA: Another challenge is the irresponsibility of people. In addition to the factory that makes socks, all other offices are incredibly negligent. We get married, people break time, and in response to our complaints not only do not admit mistakes, but trying to convince them that "all right". Error in pantón? "Only a semitone". Error in the indent? "And so will descend". Error in the size of the print? "It's not visible." The list can be endless.
LOLA: We have seen that in our country we have a terrible system of consumer protection. If you order a small party and get married, it's cheaper to spit and re-ordered things in a different place or to take such as it is, than to try to defend the rights, to order the examination and go to court where there is no guarantee of victory. Dishonest production. Therefore, it's always important before starting the party to make samples and store in business correspondence a clear description of the technical specifications and all changes.
OLGA: So the quality we always bring to mind. For shorts and socks, choose cotton with a small admixture of synthetics, and a t-shirt is just one hundred percent cotton. All of these things we carry ourselves and they are very happy.
Field for the manifest[править]
LOLA: ideally, we want to do not only the merchandise, but also more complex things. Yet there is not enough money: the production is expensive, and we fundamentally do not want to inflate the prices of products. It is important to do quality things, we will never use ephemeral materials of poor quality, to do less, make more and to provoke the buyer for the purchase of new things because of the rapid wear of the previous.
It is equally important for us to create models which provide the intellectual promise, cultural code. Independent fashion for us is a field for the manifest. We are inspired by youth subculture, art and movies. Collection of kinopalac dedicated to perestroika movie symbolizes not just love for cult films like "Courier", "AssA" or "the Tragedy in rock style", but also symbolizes our connection with the youth generation of the late 80s trying to live and breathe freely in the era of stagnation despite the degradation of the country. In Russia today, we feel the same way.
We also love to crack codes recognizable pop culture to pay attention to problems of discrimination in various youth sectors. For example, we made a rip-off of logo Thrasher, painted print in the same style, but with the word "Feminist" — such is the irony of the machismo in skateboarding and extreme sports, in which girls are difficult to achieve recognition. We also have a t-shirt "Menstruation Kill Em All" on the first album, irony over prejudices about menstruation and the stereotype of what heavy music supposedly not for girls.
Social networks and support of crisis centres[править]
Olga: Sometimes, in social networks there are strange people that leave rude comments under the posts. We correctly trying to explain to them that shouldn't, and if the person continues to be rude and stick to their guns, we block.
Lola: to Regulate the flow of negativity that comes from the haters, sometimes impossible — for example, with the latest survey for which Olga photographed Bella Rapoport in their underwear for our heading #narvskayadostava_speakup. When we notice bullying out of our accounts, we always try to stand up for a man and doin ' the haters reasoning, as far as energy and strength. It is clear that they can not be persuaded, but it is important for us to support the man offend. Generally we were lucky with the audience in instagram, the people there are friendly and informed.
Olga: we Have a very good and cool subscribers will/-ing, largely due to bloggercom with whom we are friends — many of them we shot in we seen. There was a case when we shot Millie Olya, Olya banks and Katya Valera. We each contacted separately and it turned out that they are already familiar with each other, so that was very cool and fun! Last time we wrote stories, we need a model for shooting, responded to a few more girls that also were familiar.
Lola: the Story of American Vogue is interesting that they found us. It is noteworthy that we then wrote to several major media about fashion and culture, but no one answered. When we were contacted Liana, we don't even trust you. After the publication of the interest of the local media woke up instantly.
=== We transfer funds from the sale of bags of "F is for feminism" in crisis centres for women, this is an example of how a little effort to participate in solving large-scale problems ===
OLGA: we HAVE a shop on Etsy, where we sell mostly abroad. After the film, BBC Three and the German broadcasts about Russian women we have a lot of buyers from England and Germany. Always order from the USA, Australia and Japan, but more important for us than the guys from Russia, because we're trying to change something in the minds of people here. Sometimes, things are sent to some distant village, and don't understand how these people found out about us. And sometimes some gentle teenager chooses socks or underwear their favorite, and then you think that this game is still worth it!
LOLA: it's important for Us that among our audience many politically active and creative people. After personal meetings with the subscribers we are always stoked with how cool they are talented, lucid. We wanted to share with the world these people, so we gladly call them shooting and give them the opportunity to talk about their experiences. It is important for us to talk about the projects of other activists/s, to inform our audience about important events, lectures, and petitions.
We continue to transfer funds from the sale of bags of "F is for feminism" in crisis centres for women, this is an example of how small efforts to participate in solving large-scale problems and to educate the audience a desire to help others. Now more and more people begin not just to sell their merch, but to donate money to charity. Among our acquaintances, for example, Nika Wadud, Light Streltsov, Yulia Frolova. This is a very good trend.
We like to call gammaray only in Russia, but it is not. In addition we still have a few projects related to clothing, activism and feminism: is a sewing cooperative "Swami" and "Nadia". In Moscow there are still sisters Goldmann, we met with them in Faces & Laces — we do not know their political positions, but they do similar things. Surely there's someone else who we don't know — I would love to know.
The women's cooperative[править]
Lola: We immediately arranged for horizontal interaction. In fact, we are a women's cooperative, the two of us, and all things are us. The decisions taken together: if a compromise is not possible, then the idea fails. We are now working in shifts of six in six days: the big questions to be solved together, and sales, correspondence, shipping orders, and other routine exercise in turns. It turned out to be more convenient than synchronous. We have frequent disputes on politics or feminism, we are not always ready to accept the ideas of each other, but that's OK: we are different people, with their preferences and ambitions.
Olga: it Is very hard. Although we are all friends and work together, it happens that our opinions differ diametrically. Plus when you communicate with a person almost 24/7, sooner or later comes the fatigue, which results in conflicts. But, in my opinion, a quarrel that can be resolved, is an integral part of the creative process. After the New year we decided to work on the new scheme, which was mentioned by Lola, which had a favourable impact on the job. But despite all the difficulties, I can't imagine what would do now, without stamps.
Lola: Also do not forget (especially ourselves) that we are both artist and narvskayadostava in addition we have other, equally important projects. I personally would like to seriously study music, art and photography. This year I entered the school involved art "What to do" — I hope it will help me to combine art with FEM and environmental activism.
Olga: the Brand takes physical and mental strength, but does not bring a lot of money — this year alone we were able to get the profits that you can not invest in production. In the two years we created a good springboard for ideas. Still narvskayadostava is primarily a media art project that includes us artists, and our initiatives, and then commercial history. Now I'm working on a project that was born out of our column #narskayadostava_speakup. There will be a lot of interesting women who will talk about his path to feminism. A lot of plans, had the strength!